Leather is a durable and flexible material created by tanning animal rawhide and skin, often cattle hide. It can be produced at manufacturing scales ranging from cottage industry processing to heavy manufacturing.
The principal methods of making leather haven’t changed that much over the years, but that doesn’t mean it is easy. Making leather is a lengthy and technical process that has to be followed with precision and care in order for the process to produce a high-quality leather with the same finish each time. The process will start with an animal hide and by the end of the journey there will be a piece of leather ready to be transformed into a bag, clothing or any other leather products.
As soon as the skin is removed from the animal at the meat processing plant, it is refrigerated, salted, or packed in barrels of brine. It is then sent to the tannery where the skins undergo a series of processes designed to preserve and soften the hides. The work performed at the tannery is of utmost importance to ensure that the resulting garment is of high quality.
We typically employ designers to create patterns from which the clothing is made. Computerized machines grade the designs according to government anthropometric tables which assign sizes based on body height and weight. The computer then produces patterns in a range of sizes from the original design.
We placed on moving tables called spreaders. Although modern technology allows several layers of fabric to be cut simultaneously, leather is usually cut one layer at a time. The pattern is placed on top of the leather. This is accomplished in one of two ways; tissue-paper patterns may be pinned onto the leather, or the pattern may be marked with tailor’s chalk. The spreading table works on the conveyor system, moving the fabric to the cutting machine, which is fitted with either rotary blades or band-knives. The table is either guided by a human operator or run automatically.
We assembled the jacket in roughly this order: the sides are stitched to the back portion, sleeve under seams are stitched together, and the sleeves are attached to the armholes. The attachment of finishing pieces such as collars, cuffs, buttonholes, buttons, zippers, and pockets vary according to the design of the jacket. Patch pockets are sewn onto the side pieces before they are stitched to the back portion, and side pockets are sewn in while the sides are attached to the back. Generally, lining material is attached to each piece before it is sewn onto the jacket.
Sewing materials such as thread, lining, seam tape, buttons, snaps, and zippers are purchased from outside vendors and stored in our factory.
Molding and Pressing
Several pressing processes incorporating heat application, steaming, and blocking are employed to complete the transformation of the animal skins into a jacket. Buck presses equipped with controls and gauges to regulate the amount of steam and pressure are used to give the jacket its distinctive shape, whether a bomber or blazer-styled jacket. Curved blocks are placed around the collars and cuffs and then heat is applied. The blocks are removed, leaving the collars and cuffs curved.
Everything about our jackets is just perfect; whether it is the design, style and color of the jacket, the quality of the leather used, or the precision of the cut lines. Everyone involved in the process – be they designers, tailors or quality experts – strives to achieve perfection in their work.